Tuesday, 17 June 2014
This WAS going to be on time. Really it was….
When I first heard about the bread we would be making this month, I blanched. It wasn’t that it called for red wine directly in the dough. Oh wait, it is that it calls for red wine directly in the dough. I can’t get the picture of that frightening pasta we made out of my head.
But it was Tanna (my kitchen in half cups) who chose the bread. And I trust her judgment. She is passionate about bread making. We all are. But I guess maybe you already knew about that….
So it’s no surprise that Tanna loves Lionel Vatinet’s book, A “Passion for Bread”.
Beginning in my early teens, I discovered a passion for bread making – a passion that has continued to deepen through the years that I’ve worked at the bread oven. [...] There are so many traditions associated with dining in France, and many of them revolve around bread. For instance, the loaf is always placed at the center of the table: directly on it, never on a plate. And never upside down; this would indicate that you didn’t earn your bread. [...]
[T]he lack of [bread] has started revolutions; in the smallest amounts it has kept communities from starvation; religious miracles have sprung from it; and for most people, memories, history, and family traditions center around the table where bread is broken. [...]
I have no secrets. My goal as a baker has been to demystify baking for professional and home bakers, and to mentor as many as I can so everyone can enjoy high-quality, handcrafted breads. I workd with a few basic ingredients and let my passion lead. I still find bread making magical – the feeling of the dough in my hands, the aroma of the yeast, the rise of a few ingredients into a magnificent baked loaf. It’s mysterious and endlessly alluring.
-Lionel Vatinet, A Passion for Bread: Lessons from a Master Baker, Introduction, p. 1, 2, 12
BBB Beaujolais Bread diary:
Warning: Major Whine Fest
16 May 2014 16:32 Until one of the others mentioned it, I hadn’t even noticed that the recipe called for meat (my reading difficulties, you know). But now that I see it, I probably won’t be adding meat to our bread. Cheese, maybe. Then again, maybe not.
It’s the cute shape that I’m excited about.
26 May 2014 19:05 I’m thinking about being radical, and baking the bread early. We have some white wine that we got to make chicken en cocotte “bonne femme” from a SAVEUR back issue. It wasn’t the best drinking wine – not bad, just a little soft – and there’s still half a bottle languishing in the fridge. I wonder if I could use it for the bread….
9 June 2014 17:45 Well, so much for being spectacularly early….
14 June 13:12 We were talking yesterday about meat replacement for the bread and thought morita chiles would be fun. And then today, I suddenly decided that I should add currents instead of dried chiles. They would be like grape pips.
I ran my idea by T. He said to do both. Clearly, he wants to have bread with chiles….
15 June 07:07 Oh oh. We’re supposed to publish this tomorrow, aren’t we? Okay okay!! I’ll bake the bread! (I meant to bake this on Friday. Then I meant to bake it yesterday. Really I did.)
I came here to the computer to get the recipe and got distracted. Here I was thinking that this recipe was by some freaked out clown (sorry Tanna) who was experimenting with silly ideas to create something new and fresh.
And then I started to read Lionel Vatinet’s introduction, most of which Google Books has cleverly placed as a preview of his book “A Passion for Bread”. Hmmmm…. why do I suddenly feel the need for another bread book?
The essence of great bread baking is in proper fermentation.
[...] There are two periods of fermentation: the first “bulk” frementation develops the flavor, and the second and final “proofing” stage develops the volume. [...]
Fermentation is a baker’s term for what home bakers often call “rising”. Simply replace “allow the dough to rise” with “allow the dough a fermentation period”. It is good to learn the proper term as it accurately describes what the dough does – it ferments as it goes through the chemical changes that give the baked bread its depth of flavor. [...]
Another expression familiar to most bread bakers, novice of Master, is to place the dough in a “warm, draft-free spot”. What exactly does warm and draft-free mean, and why is it important? “Warm” is a comfortable temperature between 75F and 80F. If there is more than a slight breeze moving through your kitchen, it will impact the proper frementation fo the dough by creating a thin skin on the exterior, which will then slow down the process. An open window or door or even an air-conditioning vent can have this effect.
-Lionel Vatinet, A Passion for Bread
I continued reading the preview of his seven steps to making great bread with great interest. This is going to be really interesting to use a lower liquid temperature than I have been using for a while!
And then I saw this. Nooooooooooooooo!
The essence of great bread baking is in proper fermentation. [...] Many home bakers grew up “activating the yeast” – mixing warm water with dry yeast – I don’t recommend this process. It starts the water temperature too high for proper fermentation.
-Lionel Vatinet, “A Passion for Bread”, sidebar p. 41
Oh oh… I have active dry yeast. I HAVE to rehydrate it. Pfffft!! What does this guy know anyway?
Errrmmmmm, clearly, he does know what he’s doing. And it’s always good to try new things, right? I’ll use a small amount of 80F water to rehydrate the yeast…
07:24 I STILL haven’t mixed the dough!! I’m looking at the instructions… so many instructions!
Scale all dry ingredients in a large bowl.
-BBB Beaujolais bread recipe
Wait a minute here!! Didn’t he say to “always place the salt and yeast in separate piles on top of the flour prior to mixing”?
I’ll just read that again to see if I can understand it. (Sheeesh!! What is this? Why is Tanna forcing me to learn to read?)
Okay, I think I’ve got it. I’m supposed to place the salt on top of the flour and in another section of the flour, place the yeast. Then I’m supposed to start mixing in the wine.
Which isn’t Beaujolais. It’s Portuguese Grão Vasco. Because that’s what’s in the house.
08:45: …mixed and mostly kneaded. I’m mangling in my usual fashion, using active dry yeast and rehydrating it, even though he says NOT to do that. And adding ground flax. And then there’s the wine. And refusing to use salami…). Of course, the wine got too hot when I was warming it. Oops. I had to pour it back and forth between two pots to cool it.
re-reading (okay, okay… I’m actually reading it for the first time):
Add the wine to the well in a slow steady stream as you rotate the bowl with one hand while simultaneously mixing the wine into the dry ingredients with your other hand.
-BBB Beaujolais bread recipe
Oh oh. I don’t think that “dumping all at once” is the same as “a slow steady stream”, is it? Luckily, the dough looks just fine. It’s not TOO liver coloured. And it smells like flour! T gets hint of wine. I get none.
Time for coffee. I’ll split the dough in half and add currants and chiles after.
10:03 As I was chopping the moritas, they smelled so fabulous that I decided to use all chiles rather than half the rolls with chiles and half with currants. Next time… if there IS a next time…. I’m still not sure about using wine instead of water in bread. It really does make it kind of a nasty colour.
But. It smells fabulous! Just pleasantly of wine and moritas.
11:53 Eeeeek It hasn’t moved at all. It looks exactly the same as it did an hour and a half ago.
12:07 I’m freaking out. The dough hasn’t budged one iota. And. Did I remember to take the dough’s temperature? Of course not!!
The dough should register between 72° and 80°F. Record the time you finish this step in your log noting the required time for the first bulk fermentation. The wine will extend the fermentation, probably to about three hours.
-BBB Beaujolais bread recipe
I’m really hoping we’re going to be having these rolls for dinner tonight so I can post about them tomorrow. Wish me luck. I think I may need it.
16:41 Some of the others have reported that their rolls turned out well. I fear for mine though, in spite of the fact that I had no problem with the kneading. It came together very nicely.
Operating on the principle that a watched pot doesn’t boil, I deduced that watched dough doesn’t
ferment. So I thought that I’d go out into the garden to see if I could tidy up some of the mess that the winter made. (We lost a number of perennials this year – far more than in previous years: thyme, oregano, sage, chives, sweet woodruff, mint, lamium, ferns(!!)) rise
I just looked at the dough. The stupid thing is taking its sweet time. Here it is more than 7 hours later and it has barely budged.
So. We will NOT be having rolls for dinner tonight. And it is looking more and more as if I will be posting a day late because I’m thinking that I won’t be baking these rolls until quite late tomorrow.
Unless I decide to post the raw liver coloured dough that is creeping up at a snail’s pace.
16:56 I just looked at Vatinet’s log and am I reading it right? Does this indicate that his Beaujolais bread dough takes an hour to rise after mixing?! Yikes. If that’s the case, then clearly, I have done something very very very wrong.
16 June 2014 05:07 Well. That’s progress. I guess. The dough has finally reached half way up the bowl. I think I’ll wait for another hour or so before shaping and then bake the stupid rolls to have for lunch. Maybe it will ferment a little more.
The dough should register between 72° and 80°F Record the time you finish this step in your log noting the required time for the first bulk fermentation. The wine will extend the fermentation, probably to about three hours.
-BBB Beaujolais bread recipe
hahahahahaha! Three hours? Try nineteen!
Pat into a thick square. Lift the [...] Return the dough to the bowl seam side down, cover and return to a warm draft free place for about an hour. Record the time in your log. Repeat this process one more time. Record each time in the log returning the ball to the warm draft replace.
-BBB Beaujolais bread recipe
2nd and 3rd folds?? If it took this long for it to get to this stage, I am NOT going to repeat this process even once. That’s just insanity.
(Yes, it’s true. I haven’t yet learned to read. I just now noticed that I was supposed to be doing folds while the dough was rising.)
06:24 Maybe I’ll learn one day to always read through the whole recipe from start to finish, before even getting any ingredients out. Maybe….
Final fermentation may take from 60 to 90 minutes. If it over proofs but dough will be unusable.
-BBB Beaujolais bread recipe
07:47 The dough had quite a lacy structure inside. And it smelled wonderfully of moritas. Maybe we’ll have edible rolls after all.
They are now shaped. The dough had started to dry out just a tiny bit on top – I hid that inside the rolls, in hope that it will soften again. Arranging them to look like a grape cluster was a major challenge. But I had a minor moment of brilliance when I thought of cutting the branch rope in half and twisting the two pieces together. Grape vines are always twisted, aren’t they?
The tray is covered and now in the oven with only the light turned on. I’ve set the timer for 8:30 and plan to turn the oven on then and bake them. No matter what they look like… I’m trying not to let the liver colour of the dough bother me.
09:03 They’re baking now. When I put them in the oven, T growled, “You’re baking them now?! They’re not ready! They’re just going to be little doughy pucks.”
He thinks that nobody is going to want to eat the rolls. Not even the furry black fiend.
I just turned the tray around. They don’t look terrible. But they’re still very liver coloured. Will we want to eat them? We’ll see….
09:42 After 30 minutes, they weren’t quite done. I turned the oven down to 350F and left them in for about 5 minutes longer. I think they’re done now. They smell delicious. They did rise a tiny bit and they don’t look terrible. At least their colour no longer makes me carsick.
We’re just waiting until they’re cool before we try them.
Here is the BBB June 2014 Beaujolais Bread recipe. And here is what I did to it:
BBB Grape-cluster Wine Rolls
based on a recipe in “A Passion for Bread: Lessons from a Master Baker” by Lionel Vatinet
- 5 gm active dry yeast ¹
- 20 g water, 80F ²
- 454 gm flour ³
» 9 gm vital wheat gluten
» 300 gm unbleached all-purpose
» 100 gm whole wheat
» 45 gm flax seed, ground
- 7 gm fine sea salt
- 21 gm honey
- 300 gm dry red wine, 85F 4
- 6 morita chiles, chopped 5
- mixing: In the morning
of the daybefore you are baking the bread, ignore the instructions not to rehydrate the yeast and pour the warm (90F) water into a small bowl. Whisk in the yeast to dissolve it. Set aside.
- Put wine into a little pot and warm it on the stove. Look out the window to admire the lilacs on their last legs and forget that the wine is on the stove so that it gets too hot. Pour the wine back and forth between two pots to cool it to 80F.
- Put flours and ground flax in a large bowl and whisk well. Lay the salt on one spot on top of the flour mixture. Make a little well and pour in honey. Make another well and pour in the now cooled wine. Using a wooden spoon, stir to encorporate all the flour. It might be pretty sloppy. Or not. It might just be shaggy.
- Kneading Plunge in with your hands to turn and fold the dough in the bowl, kneading until it’s smooth (5 to 10 minutes). Notice that the dough is turning a slightly nasty purple colour. When the dough is smooth, decide to continue your radical behaviour and skip the washing and drying the mixing bowl step. Simply cover the bowl with a plate to rest while you go out onto the porch to have coffee and watch the world go by.
- Turn the dough out of the bowl onto an UNfloured board and press it out into a rectangle. Scatter the chopped chiles overtop. Fold in thirds and press down. Try to fold it in half and give up. Put it in the bowl and fold it in the bowl until the chiles are evenly distributed. Cover the bowl with a plate
and set it aside in the oven with only the light turned on to
riseferment for 2 or 3 hoursovernight until it has doubled.
- Shaping When the dough has finally doubled, turn it out onto an UNfloured board and divide it into 16 pieces. Shape 15 of the pieces into spheres. Shape 1 of the pieces into 2 ropes. Arrange the spheres into a grape cluster shape on a parchment lined cookie sheet. Twist the two ropes together and bend them so it looks like a branch. Arrange it on top of the cluster. Cover with a clean tea towel followed by a large plastic grocery bag and put the tray into the oven with only the light turned on for forty five minutes. When, after an hour, they haven’t risen – in fact, they haven’t even moved one iota – to almost double, take them out of the oven to rest on the counter and decide to bake them anyway.
- Baking Make sure there is a rack on an upper middle shelf of the oven and preheat to 375F.
- Bake on the top shelf of the oven (to prevent the loaves from burning on the bottom) for 30 minutes, turning the tray around once half way through baking, to account for uneven oven heat until the rolls sound hollow when knocked on the bottom and/or a meat thermometer inserted into the center of a roll is somewhere between 200F and 210F.
- Slide the baked rolls off their tray onto a footed rack to allow them to cool completely before breaking them apart. They’re still baking inside! (Even if you’ve ignored the instructions about using hot water from the tap, please do not ignore this step.) 6
1.) Yeast: The BBB recipe calls for instant yeast and says NOT to rehydrate it before adding it to the flour. We always have active dry yeast that must (as far as I know) be rehydrated first. If you don’t have dry yeast, you can use cake yeast. Here are some guidelines:
for every cup of flour in the recipe, use either of
3 grams compressed fresh yeast
2 grams active dry yeast
1 gram instant active dry yeast
-Maggie Glezer, “Artisan Baking Across America”
Substitute twice as much (by weight) fresh yeast for the amount of dry yeast called for in the recipe.
-Daniel Leader, “Local Breads”
1 g fresh = 0.5 g active dry = 0.4 g instant
-Susan (Wild Yeast), wildyeastblog.com
2+1/2 tsp (one package) active dry yeast = 18 gm cake fresh yeast
-Carol Field, “The Italian Baker”
2.) Water: I know you’re sick of me saying this. But really. I beg you not to use water from the hot water tap. Instead, heat the water in a kettle or microwave. The BBB recipe says that the liquid should be 80F. If you are allergic to using a thermometer, you can check the temperature by putting a few drops of water onto your wrist: if it feels warm, it’s too warm; if it feels cool, it’s too cool; if it feels like nothing, then it’s fine. (yes, I know. That’s warmer than 80F and closer to 96F but still, it’s fine.) Please note that before the yeast is added, the liquid temperature must be BELOW 120F (49C) because yeast begins to die when the temperature is higher than 120F.
3.) Flour The BBB recipe calls for “white bread flour, unbleached, unbromated”. We can’t get unbleached bread flour here (or rather, I haven’t found it). A reasonable substitute for 1 cup bread flour can be made by using 1 cup all-purpose flour plus 1 teaspoon wheat gluten. Or Susan’s (Wild Yeast) formula works too: 3% high-gluten flour + 97% unbleached all purpose. Or you can go with Natashya’s method:
I have [a] book that says 5% for vital wheat gluten, about 2.5 tsp per cup. To tell you the truth, I eyeball it.
- Natashya, BBB email, 8 September 2010
4.) Wine The BBB recipe calls for Beaujolais. As if. Beaujolais is just too expensive here. We used a Portuguese red. It’s an inexpensive, decent tasting, dry table wine. I have no idea what kind of grapes are used.
5.) Dried Chiles The BBB recipe calls for salami cut into 1/4 inch cubes. I just couldn’t do it. Moritas with their amazing fruity and smoky aroma seemed like exactly the right substitute. I suspect that a hard cheese, cut into cubes would work too. Ha! I should have used something like Ilha Branca to complement the Portuguese wine in the rolls.
6.) But I LIKE warm rolls just out of the oven!! N.B. Of course you will want to serve warm rolls. Reheat them after they have cooled completely. (They are still baking when first out of the oven!) To reheat any UNsliced bread, turn the oven to 450F for 5 minutes or so. Turn the oven OFF. Put the bread in the hot oven for ten minutes.
- Bread Baking Babes June 2014 recipe
» Tanna, My Kitchen in Half Cups: Beaujolais Bread
- Information and Tools
» Gourmet Sleuth: Cooking Conversions Calculator
» Anahad O’Connor, New York Times: The Claim: Never Drink Hot Water From the Tap
» Chad Skelton, Vancouver Sun: Why you shouldn’t use hot tap water for drinking or cooking
- recipes from OUR kitchen:
» Want to see something really scary?! (pasta made with wine)
» more bread recipes
» even more bread recipes
We served the rolls with honey, butter and piave vecchio. At 3 years old, the piave vecchio, supposedly best before 15 June 2012, was fabulous and complemented the rolls perfectly.
If I didn’t look too closely, the colour of the bread was completely fine. And adding moritas to bread is a terrific idea! I love their smoky fruity flavour! They’re hot though.
The crumb was quite moist but the crust was not as crusty as desired. (They really should have been baked longer.)
I’m SO happy that we didn’t hate eating these rolls. T just talked about what I should do when I make them next time. As if.
Thank you (I think), Tanna, for this major stretch. Mostly, it was very very fun.
Tanna (my kitchen in half cups) is the intrepid host of June 2014′s Bread Baking Babes’ challenge. She wrote:
I could list several reasons that I shouldn’t have picked the bread I did. But I won’t. Instead I’m going to give you the reason I picked the recipe for Beaujolais Bread from A Passion for Bread. [...]
The introduction for this bread reads as follows: “I spent much of my youth at my grandparent’s beautiful stone house, which is surround by a vineyard in the Rhone region of France. This bread pays homage to the first grape harvest of the year. Once again, this recipes uses the Basic Country French Bread [...] and then, with just a little slight of hand, turns into something unusual and spectacular. [...]”
We know you’ll want to make Beaujolais bread too! To receive a Baking Buddy Badge to display on your site: make Beaujolais bread in the next couple of weeks and post about it (we love to see how your bread turns out AND hear what you think about it – what you didn’t like and/or what you liked) before the 29 June 2014. If you do not have a blog, no problem; you can also post your picture(s) to Flickr (or any other photo sharing site) and record your thoughts about the bread there. Please remember to email the Kitchen of the Month to say that your post is up.
For complete details about this month’s recipe, the BBB and how to become a BBBuddy, please read:
- BBB Kitchen of the month: Tanna, My Kitchen in Half Cups June 2014
- BBBuddy guidelines
- about the BBBabes
Please take a look at the other BBBabes’ June bread:
- Aparna, My Diverse Kitchen: A Fake Beaujolais Bread (Non-Alcoholic Version)!
- Cathy, Bread Experience: Burgundy Grape Cluster Bread
- Heather, girlichef: Beaujolais Bread Rolls #BreadBakingBabes
- Ilva, Lucullian Delights
- Jamie, Life’s a Feast: Red Wine (Beaujolais) Bread Rolls
- Karen, Bake My Day: Bread Baking Babes heard it through the grapevine….
- Katie, Thyme for Cooking Bread Baking Babes Bake Beaujolais Bread
- Lien, Notitie van Lien: Cheers! Bread Baking Babes
- Pat (aka Elle), Feeding My Enthusiasms: Poizin Bread With The Babes
- Tanna, My Kitchen in Half Cups (Kitchen of the Month): BBB – Beaujolais Bread
Each week, Susan (Wild Yeast) compiles a list of many bread-specific recipes from across the web. For complete details on how to be included in the YeastSpotting round up, please read the following:
Bake Your Own Bread (BYOB)
BYOB is a monthly event that was hosted by Heather (girlichef) and has now been taken over by Carola (Sweet and That’s It)
[BYOB] encourages you to start (or continue) getting comfortable baking bread in your own kitchen. Anything from simple quick breads to conquering that fear of yeast to making and nurturing your own sourdough starter. All levels of bakers are welcome to participate.
And Carola wrote:
Homemade bread is healthy! As healthy as you decide: choose the best ingredients (if you can afford it, organic and GMO free) and you’ll be surrounded by the most delicious scent and fascinated by the most delicious taste.
Let the adventure continue!