summary: Beijing Chicken Wings and Grilled Green Onions; how to use wooden skewers so onions won’t fall through the grill; delving into the archives; re-reading SAVEUR; (click on images for larger views and more photos)
Over the years, on a number of occasions, I’ve said how much I love SAVEUR magazine. But, alas, over the last few months, with each new issue, we have been more and more disappointed. So we have been delving into back issues.
Because it’s barbecue season again (yay!), we pulled out the July 2013 issue and were reminded about the most wonderful chicken wings.
My favorite chicken wing joint, Kuan Dian, is set atop a shack in Xicheng district, near central Beijing. Here, a grill in a makeshift kitchen overlooks a maze of hutongs, the traditional alleyway dwellings unique to Beijing, and rowdy students clamor over chicken wings that have been smoldering over charcoal embers until the blistered skin resembles a crisp veil the color of mahogany.
-Lillian Chou, Fire in the Belly, SAVEUR No. 157
I cannot believe that I didn’t rave out loud about this chicken before! Because when we first had it in 2013, I wrote in my diary:
summary: recipe for Chicken Savoy – sans vinegar and with burnt toast crumbs, based on recipes in SAVEUR magazine Nos. 115 and 171 (November 2008 and January/February 2015); re-reading past issues of SAVEUR magazine; (click on image(s) to see more photos and larger views)
Move over Fried Chicken!
We have been going through past issues of SAVEUR over the past month or so. The writing and photography are significantly superior to what is in this year’s issues of SAVEUR. I do have to admit that we liked some of the articles in the most recent issue but still, I cannot see myself renewing the subscription; I will not be at all surprised if SAVEUR magazine folds. It’s just not the magazine it was.
Of course, there is also the occasional recipe that stands out. And surprisingly, we almost missed out on trying one that is destined to become one of our standards.
Step aside fried chicken! Stretch’s Chicken Savoy from SAVEUR No.115 requires the table space.
By the time I open the door to the Belmont Tavern, […] [a] crowd of regulars stands three deep at the bar, content to wait out the rush […] As far as this crowd is concerned, Stretch’s chicken [savoy] should be Jersey’s state meal. […] The menu holds many temptations, but I’ve come fo the chicken; it arrives atop a puddle of caramel-colored vinegar. I grasp a thigh and crunch through the seasoned skin into the juicy meat. Ever hopeful, I again ask my waitress for the cook’s secret. She crosses her arms before spinning toward the kitchen. “I have my integrity, ” she answers. “I have my principles.” […] We think our version is pretty close.
– Michael Ames, “Local Favorite”, SAVEUR No.115, p. 19
Of course we had to make this. But we decided to omit the vinegar and use sherry instead. And we added some burnt toast crumbs too…. Continue reading →
summary: Why I am ending our almost 20 year relationship with SAVEUR Magazine;
Warning!! Warning!! Extended ranting and raving ahead… I’m taking Mr. Sachs at his word and in my usual long-winded way, am writing down what I think.
My SAVEUR suscription is about to expire; I recently received a letter of reminder from them telling me that it was time to renew.
There are any number of reasons why you might have overlooked renewing your SAVEUR subscription. Perhaps i just slipped your mind. But the fact is your subscription is quickly running out. And whatever the reason, unless you act promptly, you’ll soon be without SAVEUR.
-Rich Davis, renewal activation voucher, SAVEUR
I’m new here. This is my third issue in the editor’s seat, and while we’re not planning a gut renovation, you might notice a few changes around the place. In the coming months we’ll be tinkering with the recipe a bit, bringing in new voices, refreshing the look and feel fo the brand, and relaunching our website […] Keep in touch and let me know what you think.
-Adam Sachs, editor’s note, SAVEUR No.173
Why Subscribe to SAVEUR Magazine?
SAVEUR is a magazine for people who experience the world food first. Created to satisfy the hunger for genuine information about food in all its contexts, the magazine emphasizes heritage and tradition, home cooking and real food, evoking flavors from around the world (including forgotten pockets of culinary excellence in the United States). It celebrates the cultures and environments in which dishes are created and the people who create them. It serves up rich, satisfying stories that are complex, defining and memorable.
In every issue, you’ll:
Explore authentic cuisine as you travel east to west, beyond 5-star restaurants to hidden roadside gems.
Meet local food experts who open their kitchens and share stories, secrets and family recipes you won’t find anywhere else.
Learn tips and techniques from expert chefs who help you recreate their flavors and traditions in your own home.
– SAVEUR, Savor a World of Authentic Cuisine
Well that certainly used to be the case. In fact, each magazine was so full of enticing new ideas that it took several days to get through the magazine. We did indeed savour virtually every page. Continue reading →
Tuesday, 30 September 2014
inspiration: beetroot thoran, p.72
SAVEUR Magazine, The India Issue No. 167 (Aug/Sep 2014)
One of those things was the “beetroot thoran” from Kerala on page 72. When we read about stir-frying beets with curry leaves and coconut, we knew we had to try it!
Because I can’t stop buying beet tops (j’adore stir-fried beet-tops!), we always have beets lying around in the bottom of the vegetable bin in the fridge. But we don’t always have curry leaf on hand. Continue reading →
summary: I don’t like what is happening to SAVEUR magazine; questionable word choices for articles about food and drink: devour, gobble, mushy; Goan shrimp curry; (click on image(s) to see larger views and more photos)
Is my love affair with SAVEUR coming to an end? (I’m seriously considering the idea of not renewing my subscription when it next expires….)
I just finished reading the most recent SAVEUR magazine, The India Issue. And I’d like to have a word or two with them about what is going on there.
We were really excited when we saw the front cover and couldn’t wait to read the various articles. T was especially thrilled, hoping to relive some of the wonderful memories of his time in India and learn how much it has changed and/or remained the same.
The India Issue
Special Issue #167 is a love letter to India – its diverse landscapes, people, and of course, incredible food.
– SAVEUR.com | The India Issue
From remote tribal villages to frenzied capital cities, in India, food is life’s organizing principle. For this issue, we traverse the massive subcontinent, from east to west, from south to north and northeast, along the way dipping into restaurants and morning markets, the home of a nomadic herdsman and the palace of a raja, a wedding and a glossy movie set. […] The journey into India can start with just one curry, one dal, or one lassi. Come along with us.
-SAVEUR India, The India Issue, (SAVEUR No. 167), p. 6
As we read through the magazine, we were more and more disappointed. The articles were short, almost to the point of briefness and few held any magic, but were simply reports about what kind of food people eat in various regions, rather than a glimpse into life in that remarkable country and an unspoken invitation making the reader want (neeeed!) to experience it personally. Continue reading →
Saturday, 16 August 2014
inspiration: Della Fattoria's Polenta bread, p.203-205
summary: recipe for Polenta Bread, based on Della Fattoria’s Polenta bread in Artisan Bread Across America by Maggie Glezer; extremely long-winded (as usual) account touching on reading labels carefully and using alternate methods to create a spiral design; a Bread Baking Babes project; submission for YeastSpotting; (click on images to see larger views and more photos)
It’s corn season! J’adore corn. In all forms …even glow-in-the-dark!
It’s my turn to choose the bread this month and I wanted to choose something a little different from our normal bread but one that was made with only grains. Initially, I was going to suggest we make the yeasted cornbread from The Moosewood Cookbook. It is fabulous sliced and grilled on the barbecue then used as a “plate” for grilled meat and vegetables.
But when I looked to make sure that none of the BBBabes had chosen it before, I saw that one of us had chosen a yeasted corn bread already. It was me! It was the very first BBBabe bread that I chose: Broa – Portuguese Corn Bread (BBB October 2010)
And then, as I was typing this up, I suddenly noticed that I hadn’t made the Moosewood bread with the BBBs after all. (I’m so embarrassed… clearly, I have no memory. Not to mention that I still can’t read.)
So. I thought I’d do something unprecedented and make something new. I decided to start by actually looking in the books on our cookbook shelf. It turns out that they’re not just for decoration…
I began by leafing through Maggie Glezer’s Artisan Breads Across America because it has such lovely colour photos. I got stopped by the amazing photo of Della Fattoria’s Polenta Bread on page 116.