Of course, I immediately bookmarked it. And then the next time we were at the supermarket, I wheedled with T to convince him that we neeeeeeeded to buy tinned pineapple slices. And I promised him that I would use the juice to make pineapple rolls.
As it happened, I was going to a potluck reception and had promised to bring bread. What could be better than pineapple rolls made into a pull-apart loaf?
The default for the King Arthur Flour recipes is to display the measures in volume. But I really prefer to weigh the ingredients. Happily, KAF a handy device to toggle between volume and weight measurements!
Unbelievably, when looking at the grams version, the yeast is still measured by volume, as is the vanilla, as is the salt. The salt!!
KAF also has a handy Ingredient Weight Chart, which says the following:
For best results, we recommend weighing your ingredients with a digital scale. A cup of all-purpose flour weighs 4 1/4 ounces or 120 grams. This chart is a quick reference for volume, ounces, and grams equivalencies for common ingredients.
Ingredient Weight Chart | King Arthur Flour
This handy chart does not list salt. Are they mad??
I know I’m not the only one who has stressed the importance of measuring salt by weight rather volume! Here’s just one of the latest passages I read:
Measuring salt correctly is one of the biggest challenges in cooking from recipes. Many recipes specify volumes of salt but not the kind of salt, and so don’t really tell the cook exactly how much salt to use. It’s always best to specify salt quantities by weight, not volume.
A good amount of salt is a weight equivalent to 2 percent of the weight of the flour: or, in volume measures, 1/2 teaspoon of granulated salt for every cup of flour.
– Harold McGee, Basic Kitchen Resources: Water, the Pantry, and the Refrigerator, p.73, Breads, p. 376, Keys to Good Cooking
(Please note that I always weigh salt for bread making…. For more information about measuring salt, please see Salt is salt, right?.)
There were a few other things about the recipe that gave me pause: the excessive amount of sugar, eggs and yeast, as well as the fact that it called for all-purpose flour. Oh wait, it called for a small amount of potato flour too.
But I just cannot make bread with white flour only! So I substituted by using whole wheat flour for the starter and substituting some of the egg with ground flaxseed and extra pineapple juice.
The KAF starter calls for a whopping 9gm dry yeast. However, I made an executive decision to put the yeast into the dough and leave it out of the starter entirely.
Soaking whole grains for a good long while before adding them to dough accomplishes a few things. First the hard grains soften, so you won’t have little hard bits in your dough. But more importantly, soaking (and the extra hydration it contricutes) activates enzymes in the grain, beginning the process of breaking down its starches into sugars that provice food for the yeast.
– Zachary Golper, Truly Whole Wheat Bread with Toasted Farro “Soakers”, Bien Cuit: The Art of Bread, p.81
“[S]oak” the […] whole-grain flours before the fermentation begins; this softens the bran (making for a more voluminous loaf) and begins the breakdown of the starches into sugars (deepening flavors and color).
– Michael Pollan, Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation, Appendix I: Four Recipes, p.431
Here is KAF’s Hawaiian Buns recipe and here’s what I did to make it:
based on the recipe for Hawaiian Buns on the King Arthur Flour (KAF) website and the shaping method for The Fresh Loaf’s Buttermilk Cluster
- 28gm 100% whole wheat flour ¹
- 28gm boiling water
- all of the above soaker
- 326gm unbleached all-purpose flour
- 25g potato flour
- 12gm demerara sugar (KAF calls for 71gm brown sugar)
- 7.5gm kosher salt (1.25 tsp fine table salt)
² 3 eggs
» 14gm flaxseed, finely ground
» 1/8 tsp baking powder
» 65gm pineapple juice ³
» 1 egg
- 1/8 tsp vanilla extract (KAF calls for 5gm or 1 tsp)
- 113gm pineapple juice
- 4gm active dry yeast 4
- 28gm water at 96F 5
- 50gm butter, softened (KAF calls for 57gm)
- milk for brushing (KAF suggests using egg white mixed with 1Tbsp water)
- soaker: Put whole wheat flour into a large mixing bowl and pour boiling water overtop. Stir with a wooden spoon to make sure that all the flour is hydrated. Set aside to cool.
- dough: Dump the flours, ground flaxseed, baking powder, demerara sugar and salt on top of the soaker.
- Pour the pineapple juice into a small bowl and add the yeast, whisking until it has dissolved. Whisk in the egg and vanilla then add this mixture to the large bowl.
- mixing and kneading:Using a wooden spoon, mix everything together. Note that the mixture seems on the dry side. Pour in 10gm water. Use your hands to begin to knead and realize that you completely forgot about the butter. Squoosh it in. While the butter is still not quite mixed in, decide that it’s still too dry and add 18gm more water. Keep squooshing until suddenly, the mess looks like dough and you are able to fold and turn it. Fold and turn until it’s smooth.
- Cover the bowl with a plate and leave it in the oven with only the light on to rise until it has pretty much doubled. Don’t worry if it seems to be taking it’s time to start rising. This dough rises slowly.
- Shaping: Line two spring-form pans with parchment paper and set aside. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board. Evenly divide it into several equal pieces. (I cut around 30 because I wanted to make small rolls). Form each piece into a sphere and arrange them in a vaguely flower shaped pattern, seam side down in the spring form pans. Cover the pans with upside-down bowls and put them into the oven with only the light turned on to rise.
- Baking: Preheat the oven to 400F. Just before putting the pans into the oven, brush the tops of the shaped bread with milk. Put them onto the top shelf of the oven (to stop them from burning on the bottom) and immediately turn the oven down to 350F. Bake for about 30 minutes until they are golden.
- Remove from the oven and take off the sides of the pan. Check that the internal temperature of the bread is 190F. If not, put the bread – along with the parchment paper, but not the sides of the pans – directly on the rack, and continue baking for 5 to 10 minutes (or more). If the bread seems to be getting too dark on the top, turn the oven down to 325F.
- Allow to cool on a rack before eating. (The bread is still baking when first removed from the oven.)
If you like warm bread, reheat it after it has cooled. To reheat any UNsliced bread, put the oven at 400F for 5 minutes or so. Turn the oven OFF. Put the bread in the hot oven for ten minutes.
Serve this bread with butter. Or cream cheese. Or goat cheese. Or crabapple jelly. Or smoked salmon. Or….
1.) Soaker Flour The KAF recipe calls for unbleached All-Purpose Flour in the first step. I decided to use 100% whole wheat flour instead.
2.) Eggs The KAF recipe calls for “2 large eggs plus 1 egg yolk, white reserved”. At the price of freerange eggs, I decided to use one egg only and substitute the rest with with ground flaxseed, baking powder and pineapple juice. Not to mention that I’m terrified of making bread with an eggy taste. Here’s what the internet says about egg substitution:
For baking: 1 egg = 2 tablespoons liquid + 2 tablespoons flour + ½ tablespoon shortening + ½ teaspoon baking powder (Recipe from Substituting Ingredients by Becky Sue Epstein and Hilary Dole Klein.
OR flaxmeal (Make flaxmeal by grinding flaxseed in a blender until it has the consistency of cornmeal. Use two tablespoons flaxmeal plus 1/8 teaspoon baking powder plus 3 tablespoons water for each egg called for in recipe.
OR gelatin (To replace each egg: Dissolve 1 tablespoon unflavored gelatin in 1 tablespoon cold water, then add 2 tablespoons boiling water. Beat vigorously until frothy.)
OR cornstarch (Substitute 1 tablespoon cornstarch plus 3 tablespoons water for each egg called for in recipe.
OR bananas (Substitute 1/2 of a mashed ripe banana plus 1/4 teaspoon baking powder for each egg.)
–Cook’s Thesaurus, Eggs
If eggs are leavening agents, Buttermilk, Yogurt, Baking Soda […] can be used.
–Madhuram’s Eggless Cooking
Pineapple juice We had extra pineapple juice, so I decided to use it instead of water in the egg substitution. Normally, the amount of liquid for substituting an egg is 45gm. I added a little extra juice to substitute the liquid that would have been added with one egg yolk.
4.) Yeast The KAF recipe calls for “1 tablespoon instant yeast, SAF Gold instant yeast”, whether looking at the recipe with measurements in Volume, Ounces, or Grams (!). This works out to 9gm, which may be the correct amount if all the sugar and eggs are added but seemed really excessive if reducing those other ingredients as dramatically as I did.
5.) Water The KAF recipe seemed to be on the dry side, even after adding extra pineapple juice. So I added more water, naturally, not using water from the hot water tap. Instead, I heated the water in the kettle. You should do the same thing…. If you are allergic to using a thermometer, you can check the temperature by putting a few drops of water onto your wrist: if it feels warm, it’s too warm; if it feels cold, it’s too cold; if it feels like a cross between cool, warm and nothing, then it’s fine. Please note that before the yeast is added, the liquid temperature must be BELOW 120F (49C) because yeast begins to die when the temperature is higher than 120F.
I made two pullapart loaves: one large and one small. I wanted to make sure that I got to taste the bread!
We tested the pineapple rolls on Sunday morning and they were fabulous! The most surprising thing about them was that they smelled wonderfully of pineapple with the faintest hint of vanilla. Yet the pineapple flavour disappeared entirely in the taste.
Not caring that there was no pineapple flavour, T said, “This is MY kind of bread. Make these again!”
I took the larger pull-apart loaf to the reception, where someone promptly cut a wedge out of it, like a pie!! (Is it possible that pull-apart loaves are particularly uncommon?)
But pulled apart, or in wedges, the bread is uncommonly good. Everyone raved. It was good on its own; it was good with cheese; it was good with smoked salmon; it was good until there was no more pull-apart bread left….
Bookmarked Recipes Some time ago, Ruth (Ruth’s Kitchen Experiments) created this event to urge herself (and everyone else) to actually make the several recipes they have bookmarked in various books, magazines and internet pages. For a time, Jacqueline (Tinned Tomatoes) took over hosting the event. Because she is vegetarian, she asked that submitted recipes be vegetarian OR that alternatives be given for how to make the dish vegetarian.
However, “Bookmarked Recipes”, is no longer officially happening. You might like to look at previous bookmarked recipes:
» buttermilk cluster (bookmarked, YS)
» Whine Bread (BBB June 2014)
» Brioche et un petit Gateau a la Creme (BBB March 2013)
» Water Sports (BBB March 2014)
» Pulla: Finnish Cardamom Bread (bookmarked recipe)
» Just a hint of chocolate, eh? (BBB January 2014)
» Again I say, let them eat cake!! (BBB December 2013)
» Pão Doce – Sweet Portuguese Bread (BBB August 2010)
» Pear Bread (bookmarked recipe)
» Lucia Cats – really late or really early?