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Monday, 10 April 2006

kalonji (aka nigella seed) in Onion Pilau (SiR I)

go directly to the recipe

click on image to see more photos of kalonji
nigella The Spice is Right #1: Ancient Spices – Nigella (Nigella sativa)

When Barbara (author of “Tigers and Strawberries”) announced that she was starting a Spice event and that the first version was to be “ancient spices”, I was very excited. We had just been eating the most wonderful Indian dishes that featured nigella seed. What could be more fitting for this event?

According to en.wikipedia.org – Nigella sativa, the seed is known variously as kalonji, kezah, habbah elbarakah, siyah daneh, fennel flower, black caraway, nutmeg flower, Roman coriander, onion seed, black sesame, black cumin (a name also used for a different spice from the parsley family: kala jeera Bunium persicum), nigella or black seed. Apparently, it has been used for centuries as a medicinal remedy for respiratory health, stomach and intestinal health, kidney and liver function, circulatory and immune system support, and for general overall well-being.

And ancient? I’ll say! I didn’t know for certain that it was indeed ancient, but after googling, I’m pretty much convinced that it has been used for eons.

It is mentioned in the book of Isaiah in the Old Testament, contrasting the reaping of ketsah (Hebrew word for nigella seed) with wheat.

When he has levelled its surface, does he not scatter dill, sow cummin [Hebrew word is ketsah], and put in wheat in rows and barley in its proper place, and spelt as the border?
Isaiah 28: 25-26

And according to herbcompanion.com, nigella seed is:

[…]cultivated in India, Bangladesh, Turkey, the Middle East, and the Mediterranean basin and has been used through the ages for culinary and medicinal purposes.
[…] Nigella sativa […] has been traced back more than 3,000 years to the kingdom of the Assyrians and ancient Egyptians.

We were reminded about the use of kalonji while reading about making Bengali curry in Mangoes and Curry Leaves by Jeffery Alford and Naomi Duguid. (T’s eyes glazed over and he interrupted the reading to say how fabulous Bengali fish curry is and that he would make it for me. I’ll post soon about the Bengali Fish Curries we’ve been feasting on).

And so we went in search of it at a nearby Indian grocery store, Bombay Trading. When we asked if they had kalonji, the clerk said, “wild onion seed? Yes, of course…”

However, nigella seed is not in the onion family at all. Alford and Duguid write that it comes from a plant closely related to Queen Anne’s Lace (Daucus carota). And the following is an excerpt from Herbs, Spices and Flavourings by Arabella Boxer, Jocasta Innes, Charlotte Parry-Crooke and Lewis Esson:

Nigella is […] of the buttercup family. [It] grows wild and in cultivation in central and southern Europe and Asia. […] The seeds’ earthy aroma, faint until they are rubbed or bruised, is slightly reminiscent of carrots or nutmeg and they are peppery, bitter and crunchy to taste.

But the wikipedia article has a different idea of the flavour:

Kalonji has a pungent bitter taste and a faint smell of strawberries. It is used primarily in candies and liquors.

click on image to see more photos of onion pilau
onion pilau It does have a distinct, delicate, somewhat smoky flavour. I’m not sure that it is really reminiscent of carrots or strawberries, but as soon as I tasted it in a simple onion pilau, I knew I’d had it many times before.

Onion Pilau (aka Pulao…)

  • 1½ c Basmati rice
  • 3 c water
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 Tbsp vegetable oil (sunflower, safflower, canola…)
  • 1 tsp mustard seeds
  • 1 tsp kalonji (nigella seeds)
  • 1 medium onion
  • 3 garlic cloves (optional)
  • pepper to taste

Preparation

  1. Wash rice.
  2. Put water and salt into a large pot and bring to a boil
  3. Add rice to boiling water, cover and bring back to a boil. When it comes back to a boil, immediately turn off the heat.
  4. Put the pot on a spacer to get it away from the hot element. Let the rice sit, covered (no peeking!!) for about 30 minutes.
  5. Heat oil (In India, it would likely be ghee) in a frying pan to medium heat. Add mustard seeds and cook til they pop.
  6. Add kalonji and onions. Saute until the onions are almost caramelized. Add garlic and continue sauteeing til the garlic has a tinge of gold.
  7. When the rice is done, carefully fluff it with a fork and gently stir in the onion mixture.

Cumin seed is also a nice addition to pilau. And raisins. And green peas. And cashews…. Use your imagination!

permalink for onion pilau recipe

Kalonji adds the most wonderful dimension to western as well as Indian food. I love the crunch and slightly wild earthy taste. We recently added some to Bubbly Squeak (potatoes and kale) and it was the best ever.

And onion pilau is wonderful. But I have to say that Bengali fish curry is really outstanding and kalonji is one of the ingredients. I’ll post soon about Bengali fish curry and after you read about it, you’re going to have to try it. It is fabulous.

edit 25 April 2006 @ 10:12 EDT: Read about Bengali Fish Curry here.

 

nigella 72x54 permalink image
permalink

 

Please read more about how to participate in The Spice is Right #1: Ancient Spices. There is still time to post!! The deadline for posts to be added to Barbara’s The Spice is Right #1 roundup is 15 April 2006.

edit 20 April 2006 @ 10:33 EDT:

 

  1. Comment by ramya — 10 April 2006 @ 17:53 EST

    Wonderful to know that my spice is also is same as yours.
    by telepathy i came to visait your site .I am giving mine tomorrow

  2. Comment by ejm — 10 April 2006 @ 18:11 EST

    Haha!! That’s great, Ramya! I’m really looking forward to seeing your post and what you made using kalonji.

  3. Comment by Kalyn — 10 April 2006 @ 22:40 EST

    I’m such a dunce sometimes. I just realized tonight that when I put a link to your blog in my sidebar I accidentally entered a post permalink instead of your main page link. So Sorry!!! I have just fixed it.

  4. Comment by ramya — 10 April 2006 @ 23:20 EST

    I changed my spice, Elizabeth .Hope to give same next spice next time.
    my typing gone wrong .and hope to meet you again in roundup.

  5. Comment by ejm — 11 April 2006 @ 00:01 EST

    No problem and no need to apologize, Kalyn! It’s very nice of you to link to my blog at all. (It looks like the link is still linking to one of the inside pages on your sidebar though.)

    You changed, Ramya? Oooh, I was hoping to see what you had done with kalonji! However, I’m looking forward to seeing which spice you’ll feature!

  6. Comment by Paz — 11 April 2006 @ 14:19 EST

    How very interesting! I’ve never heard of this spice before and will look for it. I like the sound of your recipe, too.

    Best,
    Paz

  7. Comment by ejm — 11 April 2006 @ 18:07 EST

    I hope you do find some nigella, Paz, so you can try the rice recipe. If there are any stores that sell Indian spices in your area, you shouldn’t have too much difficulty. Ask for “kalonji” [ka – LAWN – gee]. (edit: I see that you live in New York City… there must be many Indian grocery stores! I wonder if nigella might also be available from many of the Jewish grocers – I’m just guessing, but at the Jewish stores, if they don’t recognize the name “nigella”, you could try asking for “ketsah”.)

    From what I’ve read recently, it seems that nigella seed is also really good sprinkled on top of bread just before baking. Barbecue season is approaching rapidly and I think the next time we make focaccia with onions on top, I’ll sprinkle half of the focaccia with some nigella seed too and do a taste test.

  8. Comment by Ivonne — 11 April 2006 @ 21:22 EST

    Wonderful post, Elizabeth!

    I’d heard of nigella seed but knew virtually nothing about it. Very informatinve and as always … great recipe!

    By the way, are you participating in the Canadian Blogger By Post???

  9. Comment by ejm — 12 April 2006 @ 08:37 EST

    You’ve probably even tasted nigella seed, Ivonne. I’m pretty sure that I’ve seen it on bagels and some multigrain designer breads.

    (I don’t know anything about “Canadian Blogger By Post”…)

  10. Comment by jasmine — 19 April 2006 @ 22:53 EST

    I must agree with you–when I “bite” into the seeds, I get the oniony taste.
    What a nicely researched post :)

    j

  11. Comment by ejm — 20 April 2006 @ 09:53 EST

    Thank you for your kind words, jasmine. And they do have an oniony taste, don’t they? But what I really like is their crunch.

 

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