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Wednesday, 2 January 2008

late night dining: mushroom ravioli and orange fennel salad (WHB#114: dill)

go directly to the recipe

recipe: Mushroom Ravioli, based on “mushroom raviolis” from Laura Calder’s FoodTV program ‘French Food at Home’

:hohoho: Happy New Year! :hohoho:

I know it’s not the weekend but with all these midweek holidays, it FEELS like it so it doesn’t seem at all wrong to be posting today for

Weekend Herb Blogging (WHB) #114 – Dill (Anethum graveolens)

(click on images for larger views and more photos)

Mushroom Ravioli I was working on December 31 until around 10:00 pm. And it was wonderful to come home past darkened houses and brilliantly lit houses full of animated people to our quiet house for an elegant midnight snack that T had prepared for us.

It took a little longer than I expected to take the streetcar home. You wouldn’t believe the crowds!! The weather was great – just above freezing and the sidewalks were clear. The streetcar had to crawl out of the downtown core because there were so many people happily walking to their various clubs and parties. I didn’t get home until around 11:30!! (It usually takes 30 to 40 minutes.)

Orangd Salad While I was out, T had slaved in the kitchen to make mushroom ravioli*. The night before, I had made orange fennel salad (without the mint).

Because I was going to be gone all day on New Year’s Eve, T and I did our grocery shopping on Sunday afternoon after an “at home” at friends’ house downtown. On the way home, we stopped at “No Frills” to get our New Year’s provisions. Unbelievable!! It wasn’t particularly crowded but it clearly had been. Many of the shelves were entirely empty. There were only two boxes of brown mushrooms and not very many white mushrooms at all. Many parts of the vegetable shelves were completely picked over with only a few sorry looking things left.

We were hoping to get fresh thyme and fresh mint – no such luck – happily, the dill was in good shape. And there were only two (nice looking) fennel bulbs left on the otherwise empty section of shelf. We were completely unsuccessful in getting pimento stuffed olives at all. The party type snack shelves were entirely empty and there were gaping holes on the cheese shelf. I’ve never seen anything like it! It was as if jackals had been there just before we arrived.

If you’ve looked at the beautiful photo on foodTV, you’ll be wondering why our ravioli are not garnished with some of the mushroom. It’s because we didn’t have enough mushrooms! Even though it seemed like there were plenty of mushrooms when we unpacked our groceries. Yes indeed, we’ve learned our lesson – NEVER buy mushrooms that are prepackaged in a box – only the top mushrooms were any good; the bottom ones were just disgusting white slime.

* And so was the beginning of T’s kitchen slavery. It’s not that these ravioli are really that labour intensive. The biggest chore should have been rolling the pasta. The rest should have been simple.

But T had to pick through the revolting mass of what had been brown mushrooms in search of intact mushrooms and then clean off any ooze from the good ones.

Then once the ooze was cleaned away, he discovered masses of horrible green fuzz all over a large piece of what had been really good parmesan cheese. Removing the fur turned it into a medium size piece of really good parmesan cheese. (Thank Heaven that one can cut mold off of hard cheeses!)

Note to self: When buying cheese, rewrap it in parchment paper and discard the heavily waxed brown paper it has been wrapped in by the store.

Things went relatively smoothly after that….

Here’s how T wanted to make the ravioli:

Mushroom Ravioli
based on “mushroom raviolis” [sic] on Laura Calder’s FoodTV program ‘French Food at Home’

pasta
correction: The total amount of flour should work out to 1 cup for every egg

  • ½ c semolina flour
  • correction: 2 Tbsp ¼ c unbleached all-purpose flour
  • correction: 2 Tbsp ¼ c whole wheat flour (or unbleached all-purpose flour)
  • 1 large egg

filling

  • good shot brown mushrooms, cleaned and trimmed
  • good shot unsalted butter
  • olive oil
  • garlic, minced
  • seasalt and pepper, to taste
  • ½ c chicken stock
  • finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano, more for garnish
  • chopped fresh dill (or thyme?)

Preparation

  1. pasta Mix flours together. Stir egg in with a fork. Knead with hands to form a ball. Cover tightly with plastic and allow to sit on counter for a couple of hours.
  2. Put dough through handcrank pasta maker. Leave as sheets and hang to dry a little. Cut into squares and lay loosely on a tray. Sprinkle a little flour over top to keep it from sticking to itself.
  3. filling Roughly chop the mushrooms. Heat about 1 Tbsp olive oil in a frying pan.
  4. Melt the butter in another frying pan. Continue heating until it turns light brown. Watch carefully to prevent burning!! When the butter is dark gold, remove from the heat, and set aside.
  5. Add mushrooms to the olive oil and sauté at medium high heat until they begin to colour. Add garlic, salt and pepper, and continue cooking until the mushrooms are soft. Pour chicken stock overtop and boil til it is reduced to around 2 tablespoons. Stir in the cheese. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Stir in the fresh herbs. Set aside until it is time to cook the pasta.
  6. ravioli In a large pot, boil well-salted water. Add pasta and cook until just tender (very short time).
  7. As the water is coming to a boil, warm up the two pans with the mushrooms and brown butter.
  8. Gently drop pasta into the boiling water and cook until just tender (very short time).
  9. Drain the pasta and toss it in the brown butter. Lay two sheets of pasta on each serving plate. Spoon most of the mushrooms into the center of each square of pasta. Top each sheet with a second pasta sheet. Drizzle brown butter over top. Garnish with fresh dill, the rest of the mushrooms and a little grated cheese.

Serve immediately – on their own as an appetizer or with orange fennel salad as a late night dinner.

We decided not to open our bottle of fizz so late (we saved it for New Year’s Day dinner) and had Domaine Grange Blanche Rasteau 2005 cote du rhone villages instead. Our late night dinner was delicious!!! The perfect way to start 2008!

We MISSED the countdown on New Year’s Eve and only noticed at 12:03 that it was 2008; nobody bangs pots in this neighbourhood…. We clinked our glasses and went on with our feast, then came upstairs to watch a Fred Astaire Ginger Rodgers movie, little suspecting that we would waken to the streets to be covered in snow again by the morning.

One handy thing about this recent snowfall, T put our champagne bottle to chill in a snowbank in the back yard. I love it when we have an outdoor refrigerator! Last night, to go with the fizz, we had fried fish with tartare sauce (all that dill!!), fennel gratin from Patricia Wells’ At home in Provence cookbook, green beans with mustard and boiled potatoes with parsley. 2008 is turning out to be a very good year!

Weekend Herb Blogging (WHB) Dill (Anethum graveolens)

dill There is nothing like fresh dillweed! And of course, the only way that we here in Toronto can have fresh dill now is by getting hothouse dill from the grocery store. Hothouse dill is not quite as wonderfully dill-like as garden dill but it is still very very good. And it’s so pretty too!

I suppose it’s possible to grow dill under lights at home too but frankly, I am too lazy. Not to mention that I find our indoor herbs to be quite dull tasting in comparison to those that have been grown outdoors in the sun or even those grown in commercial hothouses.

Dill is not only perfect for mushroom ravioli but it is great on steamed green beans and grilled tomatoes too.

Please read more about dill:

weekend herb blogging - © kalyns kitchen The wonderful weekly event, WHB is being hosted by its founder, Kalyn herself (Kalyn’s Kitchen).

For more details on how to participate in Weekend Herb Blogging, please see the following:

edit 3 January 2008: It comes as a surprise that I haven’t featured dill more often for WHB! After seeing Kalyn’s comment that she had not yet grown dill in her garden, I took a look through the gardening books on the shelf here to remind myself of what the experts say about growing dill.

According to Turid Forsyth and Merilyn Simonds Mohr, dill doesn’t even like to be transplanted. The following is from The Harrowsmith Salad Garden:

Dill […] seeds are so hardy that once [dill is established], you will likely have volunteers throughout the garden the next spring. This may be less true of a new variety called ‘Dukat Dill’ or ‘Tetra-Dill’ (CG), developed specifically for its lush foliage and delayed flowering. Dill is an annual herb of the parsley family that grows 3 to 5 feet tall and loves the sun and light well-drained soil. Prepare […] an area [by] digging in organic matter and some lime for an abundant seed harvest. Rake in the tiny seeds loosely. Sprinkle a layer of fine soil over top, and water well. Sow generously: the thinnings are delicious. Pull them until the remaining plants are 8 to 10 inches apart. […] Because dill has a taproot, it does not transplant easily, but when the seedlings ar very young, you can move them by the shovelful to another spot, thinning to one plant per group once they have become established.

And take a look at this excerpt from The Harrowsmith Illustrated Book of Herbs by Patrick Lima:

DILL […] For its own perverse reasons, dill is always better if left to find its own way around the garden. Year after year, we seed a careful patch […] in hopes of having a dense harvest of dill weed in one spot. But each year, half-wild dill appears in outlying corners of the garden, while the planted seeds […] often come to nothing. My suspicion is that […] dill grows best from just-ripened seeds sown in late summer. This, of course, is the pattern the herb follows on its own.

And this from Little Herb Gardens by Georgeanne Brennan and Mimi Luebbermann:

The almost-instant gratification received from growing dill is reason enough to plant [it]. […] How to do it Make sure your container has a drainage hole in the bottom. […] Fill the container with potting mix to within 1/2 inch of the rim. Soak the potting mix with water until it is thoroughly moist. Scoop out approximately 1/2 cup of the moist mix and set asied. Space seeds about 1/2 inch apart and press them inthe tmix gently with the palm of your hand. Sprinkle the sees with the reserved mix, providing a 1/4 inch soil cover. [Pat covering down.] Keep […] moist and fertilize every two weeks with a liquid fertilizer. When to buy spring and summer from garden centers or nurseries as well as mail-order catalogues When to plant Year-round, but spring and fall are most favorable

And finally, this from A Greener Thumb by Mark Cullen:

Dill […] is easy to grow if provided with full sun and average, well-drained soil. Potted seedlings do not transplant easily. Sow dill directly in the garden in very early spring. Give dill lots of space.

 

  1. Comment by Kalyn — 2 January 2008 @ 19:59 EST

    It does sound like a lovely dinner! I agree that dill is perfect for mushroom ravioli. I’m mad at myself because for two years in a row now I’ve failed to find a dill plant. Next year I’m growing it for sure.

  2. Comment by ejm — 3 January 2008 @ 08:41 EST

    I still think that thyme would have been really good instead of dill though. We’re definitely going to have to experiment.

    I haven’t had a lot of success growing dill – not enough sun. The one summer that it was finally flourishing, swallowtail butterfly larvae demolished it in a couple of days. I couldn’t really hold a grudge against them though. Swallowtail butterflies are too beautiful.

    I gather that it’s better to grow dill from seed, although I’m surprised you couldn’t find any dill plants at your garden center, Kalyn! I hope they have dill seeds!

  3. Comment by MrsBrown — 3 January 2008 @ 12:41 EST

    I’ve never had much success growing dill. I’ve tried a plant from the store, I’ve tried growing it from seed; I’ve got tons of sunlight in the herb garden but I’m not very good at looking after things. The rest of the herb garden seems to thrive on neglect and the dill seems, even though it’s a weed, to need regular care. It’s odd, though, I can look after the basil succesfully but the dill just doesn’t seem to want to grow. Even if I can get a plant to grow, it’s spindly and I can get better dill at the Farmers’ Market.

  4. Comment by Katie — 4 January 2008 @ 15:29 EST

    I planted dill 2 years ago and got about 6 plants out of 2 rows. I planted the same 2 rows this year and had a bazillion! I used it in everything and still had plenty of seed heads for the pickles it was intended for! (No dill pickles here!)
    Sounds like a lovely way to spen New Year’s Eve! Hate it when the shops are empty, tho…

  5. Pingback by Taste T.O. - Food & Drink In Toronto » Blog-A-Log - Saturday, January 5th — 5 January 2008 @ 07:37 EST

    […] At Cream Puffs in Venice, Ivonne whips up a loaf of savoury bread full of cheese and garlic, and there are Black-Bottom Coconut Bars at What’s on My Plate. And Eric at Do You Know the Muffin Man? has chai macarons. In the savoury comfort food column, Elizabeth at Blog From Our Kitchen has mushroom ravioli, and Tara at Seven Spoons makes linguine with crab and artichoke. […]

  6. Comment by Paz — 5 January 2008 @ 15:27 EST

    I love the sound of this salad.

    Happy New Year! I look forward to seeing what you have in store for us this New Year.

    Best,
    Paz

  7. Comment by ejm — 6 January 2008 @ 19:09 EST

    It’s a wonderful salad – perfect for winter or summer. Chili flakes and oranges really go wonderfully together, Paz. Do let me know if you try it.

    It’s really odd that dill seems so difficult to grow, doesn’t it, Katie and MrsBrown? I’m pretty sure that we saw it growing as a weed in Italy and France (although that might have been fennel….)

    Hmmmm, I have a section in full sun behind the garage. Maybe I’ll try scattering dill seed there as an experiment just to see if it really does thrive on neglect (I feel certain that it’s supposed to). Sadly, we won’t be able to harvest it if it does thrive though. There’s just too much unknown traffic back there (not to mention that I have no idea what contaminants might be lurking in the soil there.

    Katie, I wonder if the flowers couldn’t be used in a salad, if you aren’t wanting to make dill pickles.

  8. Comment by brilynn — 7 January 2008 @ 17:22 EST

    I love being able to chill bottles in the snow. However, I also love this warm weather we’re getting now!
    Ravioli are wonderful, even if you didn’t quite have enough mushrooms. I unfortunately left my pasta machine at home when I moved back to the city, I may have to steal it back…

  9. Comment by ejm — 8 January 2008 @ 17:35 EST

    You’ll definitely have to steal your pasta machine back, Brilynn! (Although, I suppose one could make these ravioli with storebought fresh pasta sheets.)

    Yes, having an outdoor refrigerator is nice but I have to say that I love the warm weather too – it’s SO much easier to bicycle to the market.

  10. Comment by Erik — 9 January 2008 @ 10:06 EST

    Hi, there!

    I just found your blog, and I enjoy it very much. It is nice to see a combination of good writing and good understanding of food and cooking!

    I was intrigued by your fennel and orange salad. Ever since I learnd about how well these two ingredients go together I have been trying to develop something like this, and I think yours is bang on. I can hardly wait to try it!

    Regards,

    Erik

    w w w . h o m e m a d e – s o u p – r e c i p e s . c o m

    Thank you for dropping by, Erik. Do let me know what you think of the orange fennel salad. -ejm

 

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