Dijon Market square:

(excerpted from my voluminuous diary of a Bicycle trip from Dijon to Avignon September 1996)

Fri, 6 Sept. 10:50 am 20C (15C at 8:10 am)

We're sitting in the sun at a full cafe with a big red awning, white plastic tables, and unfurled green and white striped umbrellas.


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We just walked all over this very busy market, into a large open building and on all the streets surrounding it, buying our picnic lunch of fresh crusty bread, Tome de Savoie and Epoisse (cured in Marc) cheeses, patÚ, plums for me and ripe, ripe melons for them. A fruit seller was loudly chanting, "Abricots --Mesdames! Messieurs! Moins chers! --Abricots!!" Another red faced woman was standing behind a bubbling cauldron of heavenly smelling chicken stew. There was a man playing cheesy music on a calliope. There are flowers and more flowers and perfect vegetables everywhere, stalls with lace curtains, underwear, shiny copper pots and pans, wallpaper, hairbands, plucked chickens with their heads and feet still on, knives, cheese, pastries, breads, patÚs and hams and all cuts of meat, clothing, pyramids of all kinds of fruit including the tiniest melons, and people shoulder to shoulder carrying big baskets filled with their purchases and buying more. One woman had a giant basket strapped to the back of her bicycle.

This place is jammed with people, mostly French, chatting and laughing and greeting each other; not so many tourists that I notice. Right in front of me is a woman selling watches; behind me someone is selling socks. I can smell the most amazing bacon and woodsmoke as I drink my strong black coffee and eat my delicious apricot pastry.




to recipe for Coq au Vin



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Toronto Ontario Canada

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